WHAT CLOTHING DO WE NEED FOR WALKING?

 

Designer Gear, you’ve got to be joking?

Let’s think about some of the outer clothing you might need to go walking; it doesn’t have to be “designer” gear, just practical and functional!

Boots and jackets are probably the most important and so you should try to buy quality items. Other things such as shirts can be more economically priced.

Clothing will also depend on the season and the time of year; in the summer, for example, shorts and a light top might be all right but at other times you will need warm, waterproof clothing.

That’s what we will concentrate on here.

 

The Feet! Let’s start at the bottom with arguably one of the most important items… boots.

Boots are better than shoes because they offer good protection against knocks and turned ankles, have strong, grippy soles and will usually be waterproof. Walking shoes suit some people but they are not really practical for use in the mountains.

If you don’t already have boots then get some advice off fellow walkers and try to buy the best you can afford. This will pay dividends because a fairly serious rambler might walk some 600 to 1000 miles a year and you must have comfortable feet.

Go to a reputable shop, take along the socks you will wear and ask for advice. Some people find one pair of walking socks sufficient, I wear two and I’ve never had a blister. Gore-Tex boot linings are sensible too because they keep your feet dry. In the summer or should you go walking abroad then non-lined boots might let your feet breath more freely.

Leather or fabric boots – it’s up to you, personal choice. Boots made with less seams are less prone to splitting and good soles are essential. Some walkers only buy boots with Vibram soles because they are tried and tested.

Make sure that your feet have enough room in the toe box, that part at the front of the boot wherein your pinkies rest.

Try lacing them, is this easy and are the boots held firmly, but not too tightly on your feet?

Insoles can usually be taken out and even washed, have a look.

Take time to try them on and walk around and around the shop in them. If the shop has a ramp then try it too. If you’re not certain then try other makes, a slightly different width fitting might make all the difference.

 

Looking after your boots. Looking after your footwear will not only keep them looking good, but will maintain their comfort, keep them working at their best and make them last longer.

The most important thing is to keep your walking boots and shoes clean, but they will also benefit from the regular application of a reproofing product. Full grain leather footwear should also be treated occasionally with a leather conditioner.

 

Cleaning. This is probably the most important part of caring for your boots. Dirt particles can work their way into the leather or fabric, and into the seams, cutting and causing fatigue. It can also help reduce the growth of micro-organisms that could lead to decay of the leather.

 

After a walk you should always rinse off all mud and dirt with cold water. If necessary, use a nylon brush. Clean off any remaining dirt and stains with footwear cleaning gel. Shake off any excess water and then apply the gel straight onto the boot. Scrub with a nylon brush and then rinse in cold water.

 

Sweat is very high in salt and this salt will build up over time in the lining of your boots. We therefore recommend that you occasionally fill your boots with water and leave them soaking overnight. The next day empty them out and give the inside a good rinse. Keeping the inside of your boots clean will also help reduce the risk of fungal infections, like athletes foot.

 

Waterproofing. This is dependant on how often they are worn and for how long, and what sort of state they are in after the walk.

 

If you have just been on a 30-minute walk in dry and clean conditions there is no need to reproof them. However, if you have just got in from a long hike in wet and muddy conditions, then it would be better to clean them as above, reproof them, and then leave them to dry.

 

Nikwax water based proofing products are generally recommended because there is no risk of over-treatment. Also they can be applied whether the boots are wet or dry. In fact, they work better when the boots are wet. This is because they will be drawn deeper into the fabric and leather.

To reproof your boots, simply apply the appropriate product evenly over the surface, wipe away any excess, and then leave them to dry.

 

Conditioning. Footwear made from full grain leather will benefit from the occasional application of a leather conditioner. This will soften the leather, making it more supple and flexible. A water based conditioner is recommended, because this will maintain the breathability. Also, traditional treatments using oils and grease, if over-applied, can soften the leather excessively. This will lead to a lack of support and will also accelerate the ageing of the leather.

 

A good conditioner can be used to help break in a new pair of leather boots, and can be used to revive the leather if it has been allowed to become dried out and brittle.

Drying. When you have cleaned your boots, and have applied any necessary reproofing or conditioning, they need to be left to dry. First, dry off any metal parts like lace hooks and eyes to prevent rusting. Stuff the boots with paper and leave them in a warm (not hot) place to dry out. If the paper becomes saturated, replace it.

Never leave your boots on a radiator, on the boiler, or anywhere that is too warm. This could cause the leather to crack, and it could cause bonded soles to peel away.

Trousers. Trousers with zip-off legs and good pockets are very popular because they give you plenty of storage space and allow you some flexibility depending on the weather. The idea is to remove the bottom bits when it is warm and keep the top bit on. Don’t get it the wrong way around – very embarrassing!

Various types are available including waterproof fabrics but, again, try to get some practical advice. I have found that waterproof trousers do not work because they create sweat. Overtrousers have proved better.

Pockets with zips are safer because these reduce the possibility of loosing things.

Ask the advice of the shop staff and, unless you know exactly what you are ordering, resist buying by mail order or off the internet.

Waterproof overtrousers.

Overtrousers are perfect for wet weather and should be carried by all walkers. They will keep you dry and warm and can also be worn when the weather turns cold. Various styles and makes are available and good ones are not cheap.

Gore-Tex linings are good but there are other materials that are said to be just as good. Discuss them with shop assistants and shop around.

Make sure that they will pack away as small as possible so that they are easily carried.

Fleeces.

A thin fleece with a zip up the front works better than something that pulls over your head.

When it is cold and you want to add a fleece then it can be put on like an ordinary jacket, if it has to be pulled on over the head then any hat, scarf and the like has to be removed first.

When the temperature rises the zip can be pulled down for ventilation and the sleeves rolled up, later and if necessary, the fleeces can be removed.

Jackets and Coats. After boots the jacket is the next most important, and expensive, piece of clothing and, once more, there is a bewildering choice especially for the beginner.

A waterproof jacket is likely to be windproof too and so it will be used quite a lot. Come on a few walks and ask others what they prefer. You need to be sure that all your hard earned cash is buying good value for money

Different styles and fabrics mean that a good fit can be achieved. Put the jacket on and make sure that there is plenty of room under it for a fleece or other clothing.

Are the cuffs long enough to pull you hands up into and do they tighten up on the wrist, perhaps with Velcro, to keep out the wind and rain?

Try the hood to make sure it fits and doesn’t pull the shoulders of the jacket up. Does it have wired reinforcement at the peak to hold it in rough weather? Are there cords to tighten it around your face to keep out the rain?

Does the jacket have a Gore-Tex or other waterproof lining? Is there a drawstring around the hem, waist and hood to keep out the wind?

Try it with a rucksack on your back, do the straps pull the hood down uncomfortably onto your head? Make sure the jacket isn’t too short because your back might get cold or wet when you bend over or climb stiles.

Try jackets on with whatever you will wear underneath so that you make sure the fit is great and consider how gloves or mitts will meet the sleeves.

Finally, don’t jump at the first jacket you fancy, the colour should not be your first concern, it isn’t a fashion accessory!

 

Waterproof clothing. Clothing may now be purchased which is really waterproof, it is not cheap but it is very good.

Generally this consists of thin, uninsulated material sometimes called by the trade name of Paclite. I have a Paclite jacket, overtrousers and overmitts and they are very good. Other clothing is available such as hats and gear for cyclists and climbers.

The wearer needs to consider when and where they are to be worn. They have little insulating qualities and so are less practical for winter use in the mountains. They are, however, perfect for good weather use.

-oOo-

Remember – once you have joined the Ramblers your membership card will give you 10% or 15% off at various outdoor clothing stores. Sometimes even more!